Turn a corner in Mozambique’s seaside capital Maputo, and the skyline vanishes. Colonial Portuguese buildings and mid-century modernist apartment blocks give way to a maze of rutted alleys crammed with tin-roofed shacks. This is Mafalala, Maputo’s most famous neighbourhood — a place enshrined in the guidebooks as the cradle of Mozambique’s post-independence culture. But as a rough district in one of the world’s poorest countries, residents struggle to capitalise on their community’s heritage. Three years ago, a group of students and professionals decided to change that by opening a museum to …