Lemons get a bad rap. When we buy a car that doesn’t run, we call it a lemon. When life gives you lemons, we say you should make lemonade, as if lemons were something merely to be endured. It’s not fair. Lemons are bright and sunshiny, brisk and invigorating. They add a delicious splash of life to food, they sprinkle it with the essence of spring. I say, when life gives you lemons, you should celebrate. Yay, lemons! It’s time we elevate the humble lemon to the pantheon of culinary flavors. And so I decided to cook four dishes that take full advantage of this most versatile of citrus fruits. I …